For many people, Reykjavík's nightlife is the main reason for coming to this cold and windswept spot in the first place. It feels a bit odd compared to clubbing in other European destinations, particularly given the size of the city, but just as the country is geologically young and dynamic, the nightlife is too. It has had a lot of publicity in the last few years, causing some to find it a little over-hyped: it's certainly not like the nightlife you'd find in London or New York, but for a town this size it holds its own with over 120 bars and clubs. Friday and Saturday nights are the wildest nights here, and that means serious clubbing from around 2400 to 0800 in the morning. The bars and clubs don't really fill up until after midnight. Those drinking in the bars and cafés before midnight are predominantly tourists as the expense of drinking all night forces many of the locals to drink heavily at home before heading into town. Then to round it all off when the bars and clubs have closed, head for Austurvöllur Square where people tend to hang around. Coffee and lots of it are the order of the day on a Sunday.

The long summer days and yawning winter nights give a whole new twist to the concept of partying till dawn. Follow the crowd for a lively night; it's typical for bars to stay open as long as people are still drinking at the weekends, or alternatively close if no one's around. Music-wise you'll find a little bit of nearly everything in the city, from golden oldies to innumerable DJ sets and a few retro bars, although there isn't an abundance of rap or ethnic music. Icelandic bands play at Gaukurin during the week and cafés push the ethereal sound of Sigur Rós during the day. Start your pub crawl at the corner of Bankastræti and Ingólfsstræti and head down the streets towards Austurvöllur Square. The bars and clubs noted below are primarily active in the evenings, but don't neglect the cafés which are nearly all open as bars in the evening. DJ sets are popular at weekends at Sirkus, Kaffeebarinn, Hverfisbarinn, Kaupfelagið, Thorvaldsen and any number of other places across the town. They're ever so slightly subdued during the week and very upbeat at the weekend and entry is generally free.

Reykjavíkurs have only had legal access to beer since 1989 and there are many unusual things about drinking in the city even today. In common with other Scandinavian countries, alcohol is state-controlled, expensive and, outside of bars and restaurants, can only be bought from the Vinbuðin shops. The closest one to the centre is on Austurstræti. This may go some to explaining why Icelanders don't go in for social drinking – getting sozzled is the order of the day.