Can you imagine a city laid out in the shape of a puma, a stone to tie the sun to, or a city of fleas? Are you willing to meet the Earth Changer, Our Lord of the Earthquakes and Mother Earth? If so, prepare to follow the pilgrimage to the place which every Inca endeavoured to visit once in a lifetime, Cusco. Navel of the world, Spanish colonial showpiece, gringo capital of South America: the city is all these things.